Archive for the ‘Technique’ Category

30 Bucks – A Lens Cap Or Time Lapse Movies?

Alright, before we get started, I just want to say this post is way too long.  If you’re not interested in the jibber-jabber, but wanna see my bitchin little time-lapse movie,  just jump to the end.

$30 doesn’t buy you basically anything in photography.  Maybe a lens cap.  That’s the main reason I never bought a Timer Remote or Intervalometer before.  The Canon branded one costs about $150.  After reading up on how to make Time-Lapse movies on the awesome DIY Photography website, I did a little research and once again, it was Ebay to the rescue!

When my Taiwanese beauty arrived in the mail I was quick to bust it out.  You have a few options, but basically it comes down to:

  1. How long should I wait to start taking pictures?
  2. How long should I wait between shots?
  3. How long should I make the shots (or let the camera take care of it)?
  4. How many pictures should I take?

Want to read all about it and see the final movie?  Hit the jump and read on.

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Two Photography Birds, One Domestic Cat Stone

As you might have noticed, I love my 50mm lens – the Nifty Fifty.  Photography would be a much more accessible and enjoyable hobby if more good stuff cost less.  Honestly, at this point, I raise an eyebrow much faster at a lens that costs less than $100 than I do at one that costs more than $1,000.  But I’m getting off the subject – where was I.  Ah yes.  The Nifty Fifty.  This is a great lens that anyone who owns a Canon (D)SLR should have.  The main selling point after the price is that huge f/1.8 aperture.  That makes it a good two stops faster than most “good” lenses and worlds better than the slow end of what comes bundled with your average camera.  This has some obvious upsides (bokeh, anyone?) but there are also some problems.

It is easy to take bad pictures with this lens.  Out of focus pictures.  Here’s the key.  In most situations, the camera is going to drop the lens all the way open in order to gain more light.  Unless you set the aperture yourself, this means shallow depth of field.  When you take a picture of two people maybe 8 feet away with one slightly in front of the other, someone is going to be blurry.  You see where I’m going here?  No?  Well that’s why I brought examples.

Lucky The Cat, with focus on his head

This, my friend, is Lucky the Cat, doing what he does (when he isn’t rapaciously eating or rapaciously scratching people).  Without moving the camera, but with a twist of the focus ring, you get this:

Lucky the cat, with focus on his paw

Lucky is a big cat, but he’s not that big.  This is shallow depth of field.  You can do some great stuff with it, but you’ve got to remember that it exists.  If you want more DOF, you have to dial your aperture down a few stops, which means you need a higher ISO speed or a longer exposure length.  This is the same with any lens, of course.  The only difference is with the Nifty Fifty, you have the option of going down to 1.8.  You’ll never have the shallow DOF problem with an f/5.6 lens because you’ll have your own, completely different problems instead.  I’ll take this one any day.

2 Steps to Snappy Pictures

Seattle can be a dreary place – you may have heard.  The overcast gives an even light that can be good for portraiture, but when it gets too dark out, you often end up with flat light.  However you get it, flat light makes boring pictures.  Simple as that.  A while back, I put up this technique (or at least linked to it) on how to add some pop to a picture that needs something extra.  It works well, but it takes a little while.  There are more than a few steps.  It involves brushes and such.  When you need it, great.  But what if you want something easier?  There are a couple caveats, but once again, I’ve stolen something I can help you with.  Let’s start from the start:

newspaper-box-start

Wanna see how this picture gets at least marginally more interesting?  Click the jump for more.  I promise it’s easy!

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Cat In The Headlights

The more I learn about photography, the more I realize how little I know.  I’ve been doing some portrait stuff at work and I’ve been thinking a lot about lighting.  I got to rent some neat crap which made me realize just how much fun it is to be able to get your flash completely off your camera.  It leads to some great photographic stupidity, like this:

Lucky-cat-in-headlights

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF50mm f/1.8 II     Shutter:   1/60 s
Creation Date:   2009:07:17 16:34:32     Aperture:   f/4.0
Artist:   N/A     ISO:   800
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   50 mm

That’s my furry little monster Lucky, who happens to be a perfect subject in that he can’t leave and never knows what’s coming.  See those dark corners?  No post-processing at all.  When you can control your flash direction independently of the camera, you have all sorts of options.  Most of the time, to be honest, this is analogous to the manual controls on your camera – for all the freedom it gives, it’s usually just confusing.  Unless you do this all day, a setting pretty close to auto is very nice.  It isn’t cheap in any way, but the new Pocketwizard MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 are the best of both worlds.  They have pages of settings to toy with, but my favorite part is that when I attach one to my camera and the other to my flash, the camera works just like the flash was directly attached. The only difference is that I can direct it however I like.

Usually the best way to use a flash is to disperse the beam – bouncing it off a ceiling or wall for more even light.  In this picture, I used a grid, which does just the opposite.  I don’t think it would be the most flattering portrait, but it sure is exciting and hey… Lucky can’t complain.

Everyone Needs A Contraption

Since I’ve been posting more of those Through the Viewfinder pictures (or at least thinking about them) again, I thought I’d finally get around to showing you the magic behind the pictures – the Contraption. I don’t exactly know why everyone calls them that, but there are a lot of these people, and “contraption” is what they all call it.  Anyway, here it is.

Full view of TtV Contraption

Want more details and pictures?  Click the link for more.

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Vignette – A Bug And A Feature

A friend of mine emailed me recently. He was curious what was going on with this picture and how he might recreate the effect himself. Probably old news to photography buffs out there, but hey – it’s always fun to talk shop, right?

University of Washington Statue with Vignette

Anyway, the dark-around-the-edges effect is called a vignette. Usually this is a defect – toy cameras like the Holgas that all the hipsters know so well are famous for light leaks and vignetting. Camera and lens reviews sometimes talk about it, but only as a reflection of poor quality.  You can also see this image sometimes when you use a filter on the front of a lens, especially a thick filter or a wide-angle lens.

Vignette isn’t always a bad thing.  When done on purpose, the effect can work well as long as you don’t over do it. There is a setting in most image editing programs to do just that, but interestingly enough, the original purpose most often seemed to be to remove unwanted vignetting, not to add it in, so to create a vignette, you’re going to want to run the vignette setting in the negative direction.  Personally, I think it works best on a classically-styled image where the subject is in the middle of the frame and the area directly surrounding the subject is largely empty – portraits, especially wedding photos, come to mind.  Free frame, courtesy of vignette.

Want to add one yourself?  Click the link for a few instructions.

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Through The Viewfinder, Via Collage

I stumbled upon a cool group on Flickr the other day – it’s all about Through The Viewfinder stuff, but with multiple shots pasted together into a collage.  They’ve got some great stuff over there and eventually I got around to trying my hand.  This was just the first effort.  Trust me – I’ll get better at this, almost certainly because I can’t get worse.

Collage of a House, Through The Viewfinder

Kinda fun, yeah?  Well I learned a few things too.  You need a strong subject moving through the frame – coastline, fence, something linear to help align the pictures.  It doesn’t help that the camera I shoot my TtV stuff with is pretty darn soft around the edges of the frame.  Also, I really need to throw it into a bit more of a manual mode, so I can get exposures to match up a bit better.  I like the oddness of it, but room to improve.  Maybe I’ll drag it out again tomorrow.  What do you think?

Tilt-Shift Photography On The Cheap

So there’s this thing called Tilt-Shift Photography, which I guess could also be called “using a tilt-shift lens on your camera.  What is a tilt shift lens?  It’s a horrendously expensive specialty lens often used by people taking architectural photography.  Why are you reading this?  Because tilt-shift is fun stuff:

Soap Box Derby Banana

Alright – I admit it.  That’s not real tilt-shift.  The good news is that you can fake it too – easy!  Click the link and I’ll tell you all about it.  It’s easy.  Did I say easy?  I meant easy.  Click the jump.  Do it.

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