Archive for the ‘Technique’ Category

Sad Sad Elephant

Recently I’ve been doing a lot of experimenting around the house with my macro lens.  I suppose there are two things I really like about it.  Seeing small things big, as simple as it sounds, can often reveal things you wouldn’t otherwise notice.  The second thing is that macros are notorious for shallow depth of field.

This shot isn’t new, but it’s also from my 100 mm macro.  It comes courtesy of the shots I did at the zoo way back when.  What it does share, however, is the super shallow depth of field.

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT (Canon) & 100.0 mm     Shutter:   1/25 s
Creation Date:   2008:12:16 16:01:59     Aperture:   f/2.8
Artist:   Ari Brown     ISO:   200
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   100 mm

I love keeping things simple.  If you’re blessed with a subject isolated from a background, you’re all set.  If you’re (more likely) taking pictures of something with a distracting background, shooting for shallow DoF takes care of the problem for you.

If you don’t have a macro lens, you can still get shallow DoF, at least to a point.  Here are the steps:

1.  Open it up.  Whatever your available aperture settings (f-stop) are, make sure you’re using the widest (smallest number) possible.  This is often not a problem as unless you’re shooting under a lot of light, most cameras will do this automatically.  For the cheaters out there, the “Portrait” setting found on most cameras is going to pick settings to minimize depth of field for the same reasons as I describe above.  Use it as a quick way to get these settings.

2.  Get as close as possible to your subject.  Each camera and lens has a minimum focusing distance, and unfortunately this can be much farther than you want, but get as close as you can and still focus.

3.  Position yourself so that things in the picture other than the subject are as far away as possible – just get as much separation as you can.

That’s it – with any luck, you should end up with a sharp subject and buttery smooth bliss in the background.

How Photoshop Won The Panorama War

When I started talking about panoramas, there was some question about how you might turn a few pictures into one.  You didn’t need a tripod, but it was strongly recommended.  A bubble level wouldn’t hurt too.  Care needed to be exercised.  Incantations were recited.  If you took a picture of water buffeted by the wind, god help you.  Back in the day, I used Panorama Factory.  It crashed a lot.  I spent hours mapping little dots from one picture to the next.

Starting with Photoshop CS4, Adobe changed all that.  There was a panorama tool built right in, and it had a magic setting called “Auto”.  With CS5 it got even better.  No matter what you throw at it, it blends, warps, and just works magic.  The pictures always look good.  Always.  Here is my latest:

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM     Shutter:   1/80 s
Creation Date:   2010:05:27 12:57:45     Aperture:   f/5.0
Artist:   Ari Brown     ISO:   100
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   45 mm

Like before, I’m posting my panoramas at twice the width of most of my pictures so you can see a little of the magic in there!

This is a shot from the end of highway 270 on the north shore of the big island of Hawaii.  Stretching out to the east is the Waipio Valley.  From this side, near Hawi, you can drive only so far, and then you can hike.  The beach below is only 20 or 30 minutes, but you can go a couple days farther if you’re stupid brave enough.  It’s a beautiful place with lazy cows, fields of waist-high grass and the odd taro patch.  It might not be obvious but this shot is a bit odd.  I’m standing on a hill, shooting down and panning the camera diagonally – sort of inland + underneath me.  In the past, this just wouldn’t work.  You’d have to map every point in the panorama by hand, and at the end of the day you’d have a distorted picture that would probably lead to a lot of rending of hair and kicking of computers.  With Photoshop CS5, you just hit go and wait.  I’d like to say I miss the old days when things were hard, but I don’t – at all.  Not only does this let you just take pictures and do what you want to do, but it means you can shoot hand-held and with lesser equipment and still have something serviceable come out the other side.  Adobe, this time, I love you.

What Guards Your City?

I haven’t had a chance to get out and shoot much recently, so I went digging in the vault again.  This is one of my favorite pictures – not so much because I did anything wonderful, but because I was in the right place and just didn’t mess it up.

Camera & Lens   Canon PowerShot S400 (Canon) & 7.4-22.2 mm     Shutter:   1/640 s
Creation Date:   2004:04:07 07:15:32     Aperture:   f/4.0
Artist:   N/A     ISO:   N/A
Exposure Mode:   N/A     Focal Length:   15.4 mm

This could have easily been a crappy shot – if you care to here more, click the link and I’ll lay it out. (more…)

Diesel – A Reason To Advertise

Commercial detritus has always been a fascination of mine, especially things like old signs.  I’m not the only one – you see the pictures everywhere.  If I was making one up in my mind, I’m thinking a rough kinda industrial product, big letters, old peeling paint, decrepit building.  I’m thinking something like this:

Camera & Lens   Canon PowerShot S90 (N/A) & no lens info     Shutter:   1/640 s
Creation Date:   2010:04:27 22:52:51     Aperture:   f/8.0
Artist:   Ari Brown     ISO:   200
Exposure Mode:   N/A     Focal Length:   10.7 mm

That wasn’t really how things started.  If you want to see the original and hear a little more, hit the jump.

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Low Light Abstracts Your Photography

I mentioned the Seattle Underground Tour in the last post.  Low light, shoving tourists, not a lot of time.  In cases like this, you get a lot of what you get:

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF50mm f/1.8 II     Shutter:   1/6 s
Creation Date:   2010:01:01 15:25:14     Aperture:   f/1.8
Artist:   Photographer: Ari Brown     ISO:   3200
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   50 mm

Sometimes that isn’t a bad thing though.  Back in the film days it was more of a change, but even now it feels odd to some people: taking good pictures is all about taking a whole lot of picture.  What you get will vary and what you expect to like might not be what you do.  For these shots, I wasn’t trying to really document what I was seeing because I knew it wouldn’t come out, but I like the effect anyway.

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF50mm f/1.8 II     Shutter:   1/6 s
Creation Date:   2010:01:01 15:25:56     Aperture:   f/1.8
Artist:   Photographer: Ari Brown     ISO:   3200
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   50 mm

The hand-held shots means camera shake.  High ISO means noise.  Funny lighting means… funny light.  It just is what it is and these two, I liked.  Wish I’d have taken more, but it was a tour, not photo time.  Oh… and if you are wondering, these two are both the old glass sidewalk skylights common in Pioneer Square – if you see them on the street, the ground underneath is hollow.

Ghost Town or New House

How do you decide when to take a picture  in black and white as opposed to color?  In the film days, it was actually a decision you had to make but with digital, it always starts as color.  Most cameras have a black and white mode, but you’re kinda nuts if you use it*.

Most of the time when I take a picture and decide to process it into a B&W image, it’s because it either has really strong lines and contrast or it has very little in the way of color to start.  That was what I found here:

Ghost Town or Garage Wall?

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT (Canon) & 12.0-24.0 mm     Shutter:   1/60 s
Creation Date:   2009:12:19 12:30:21     Aperture:   f/5.6
Artist:   Ari Brown     ISO:   200
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   15 mm

You like reading all of my jabbering?  Click the link for more:

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Panning Shots – Sharp and Blur Together

Panning shots always looked cool to me.  You see them often in sports photography – a car or bike in perfect focus with the background just a motion blur behind it.  The way you usually do this is by setting your camera to a moderately low shutter speed (it all depends, but maybe somewhere between 1/50 and 1/10) and as the subject moves past you in a horizontal direction, you track them with your camera and take the picture while moving your camera to follow them.  When done right, you get a subject in focus and everything else a blur.  I’ve never had a ton of practice getting this type of shot but here are a few like that:

Thunder Mountain Railroad at Disneyland - Panning Shot

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF35mm f/2     Shutter:   1/80 s
Creation Date:   2009:10:12 11:31:19     Aperture:   f/5.6
Artist:   Photographer: Ari Brown     ISO:   200
Exposure Mode:   Shutter priority     Focal Length:   35 mm

Here’s another.  Notice how… not sharp the subject is.  Part is lack of practice and the other part is this just… kinda hard!

Seattle Redbull Soapbox Derby Banana - Panning

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT (Canon) & 24.0-105.0 mm     Shutter:   1/60 s
Creation Date:   2007:09:29 09:27:56     Aperture:   f/5.6
Artist:   Ari Brown     ISO:   200
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   24 mm

I’ve got the cure for your problems.  Wanna take a picture that doesn’t require things to go whizzing past your face, lets you easily accommodate your subject of choice, and get a great panning effect?  With a little help from an idea stolen directly from DIY Photography, you can do just that!  Hit the jump for the rest!

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The Evolution Of Panorama

Panoramic photography is a lot of fun.  There is nothing like the viewpoint you can get by stitching together a bunch of shots into a broad sweeping view.  I first posted instructions on how to shoot a panorama back here.  We then had a couple posts in a row alternately described as Panoramania and Panorama-orama.  Lots of fun.  All the instructions for how to actually capture the pictures are still fairly valid but I want to tell you there is a better way.  Behold!

ocean-beach-panorama

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM     Shutter:   1/200 s
Creation Date:   2009:10:13 11:23:45     Aperture:   f/10.0
Artist:   Ari Brown     ISO:   100
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   24 mm

See that shot?  Not too bad, right?  The real magic however, is twofold.  First off,  I shot that hand-held.  Yes, it was in fairly bright sun so the exposure was easy, but it includes a beach scene and rolling waves are just about the hardest thing to put in a panorama.  The real beauty behind it all is Adobe Photoshop CS4.  Whereas before I told you to use Panorama Factory or Autostitch, which are still fine, I just need to spread the word that the built-in panorama creation tool in CS4 beats them all.  In fully auto mode, it stitched together 6 individual shots to create this without any manual intervention.  Without much if any moire, and without totally barfing when it came to the water.  The original shot is 10,000 and some pixels wide and I think it’s beautiful.  If anyone is really interested, I can post a larger version too.

The moral of the story is this: go shoot some panoramas.  Certainly a tripod and level will help and for night shots it might be the only way, but don’t limit yourself!  Software is constantly improving and even if you don’t have Photoshop CS4 right now, you might get it down the road (or you might get this feature in something free or low cost in 6 months).  Things change!  The only thing you can’t change is the fact that you might not take pictures today.  I’ve certainly regretted the things I’ve not captured.  Do yourself a favor.  Digital is cheap.  Go take pictures.