Archive for the ‘Technique’ Category

Low Light Abstracts Your Photography

I mentioned the Seattle Underground Tour in the last post.  Low light, shoving tourists, not a lot of time.  In cases like this, you get a lot of what you get:

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF50mm f/1.8 II     Shutter:   1/6 s
Creation Date:   2010:01:01 15:25:14     Aperture:   f/1.8
Artist:   Photographer: Ari Brown     ISO:   3200
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   50 mm

Sometimes that isn’t a bad thing though.  Back in the film days it was more of a change, but even now it feels odd to some people: taking good pictures is all about taking a whole lot of picture.  What you get will vary and what you expect to like might not be what you do.  For these shots, I wasn’t trying to really document what I was seeing because I knew it wouldn’t come out, but I like the effect anyway.

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF50mm f/1.8 II     Shutter:   1/6 s
Creation Date:   2010:01:01 15:25:56     Aperture:   f/1.8
Artist:   Photographer: Ari Brown     ISO:   3200
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   50 mm

The hand-held shots means camera shake.  High ISO means noise.  Funny lighting means… funny light.  It just is what it is and these two, I liked.  Wish I’d have taken more, but it was a tour, not photo time.  Oh… and if you are wondering, these two are both the old glass sidewalk skylights common in Pioneer Square – if you see them on the street, the ground underneath is hollow.

Ghost Town or New House

How do you decide when to take a picture  in black and white as opposed to color?  In the film days, it was actually a decision you had to make but with digital, it always starts as color.  Most cameras have a black and white mode, but you’re kinda nuts if you use it*.

Most of the time when I take a picture and decide to process it into a B&W image, it’s because it either has really strong lines and contrast or it has very little in the way of color to start.  That was what I found here:

Ghost Town or Garage Wall?

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT (Canon) & 12.0-24.0 mm     Shutter:   1/60 s
Creation Date:   2009:12:19 12:30:21     Aperture:   f/5.6
Artist:   Ari Brown     ISO:   200
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   15 mm

You like reading all of my jabbering?  Click the link for more:

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Panning Shots – Sharp and Blur Together

Panning shots always looked cool to me.  You see them often in sports photography – a car or bike in perfect focus with the background just a motion blur behind it.  The way you usually do this is by setting your camera to a moderately low shutter speed (it all depends, but maybe somewhere between 1/50 and 1/10) and as the subject moves past you in a horizontal direction, you track them with your camera and take the picture while moving your camera to follow them.  When done right, you get a subject in focus and everything else a blur.  I’ve never had a ton of practice getting this type of shot but here are a few like that:

Thunder Mountain Railroad at Disneyland - Panning Shot

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF35mm f/2     Shutter:   1/80 s
Creation Date:   2009:10:12 11:31:19     Aperture:   f/5.6
Artist:   Photographer: Ari Brown     ISO:   200
Exposure Mode:   Shutter priority     Focal Length:   35 mm

Here’s another.  Notice how… not sharp the subject is.  Part is lack of practice and the other part is this just… kinda hard!

Seattle Redbull Soapbox Derby Banana - Panning

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT (Canon) & 24.0-105.0 mm     Shutter:   1/60 s
Creation Date:   2007:09:29 09:27:56     Aperture:   f/5.6
Artist:   Ari Brown     ISO:   200
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   24 mm

I’ve got the cure for your problems.  Wanna take a picture that doesn’t require things to go whizzing past your face, lets you easily accommodate your subject of choice, and get a great panning effect?  With a little help from an idea stolen directly from DIY Photography, you can do just that!  Hit the jump for the rest!

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The Evolution Of Panorama

Panoramic photography is a lot of fun.  There is nothing like the viewpoint you can get by stitching together a bunch of shots into a broad sweeping view.  I first posted instructions on how to shoot a panorama back here.  We then had a couple posts in a row alternately described as Panoramania and Panorama-orama.  Lots of fun.  All the instructions for how to actually capture the pictures are still fairly valid but I want to tell you there is a better way.  Behold!

ocean-beach-panorama

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM     Shutter:   1/200 s
Creation Date:   2009:10:13 11:23:45     Aperture:   f/10.0
Artist:   Ari Brown     ISO:   100
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   24 mm

See that shot?  Not too bad, right?  The real magic however, is twofold.  First off,  I shot that hand-held.  Yes, it was in fairly bright sun so the exposure was easy, but it includes a beach scene and rolling waves are just about the hardest thing to put in a panorama.  The real beauty behind it all is Adobe Photoshop CS4.  Whereas before I told you to use Panorama Factory or Autostitch, which are still fine, I just need to spread the word that the built-in panorama creation tool in CS4 beats them all.  In fully auto mode, it stitched together 6 individual shots to create this without any manual intervention.  Without much if any moire, and without totally barfing when it came to the water.  The original shot is 10,000 and some pixels wide and I think it’s beautiful.  If anyone is really interested, I can post a larger version too.

The moral of the story is this: go shoot some panoramas.  Certainly a tripod and level will help and for night shots it might be the only way, but don’t limit yourself!  Software is constantly improving and even if you don’t have Photoshop CS4 right now, you might get it down the road (or you might get this feature in something free or low cost in 6 months).  Things change!  The only thing you can’t change is the fact that you might not take pictures today.  I’ve certainly regretted the things I’ve not captured.  Do yourself a favor.  Digital is cheap.  Go take pictures.

30 Bucks – A Lens Cap Or Time Lapse Movies?

Alright, before we get started, I just want to say this post is way too long.  If you’re not interested in the jibber-jabber, but wanna see my bitchin little time-lapse movie,  just jump to the end.

$30 doesn’t buy you basically anything in photography.  Maybe a lens cap.  That’s the main reason I never bought a Timer Remote or Intervalometer before.  The Canon branded one costs about $150.  After reading up on how to make Time-Lapse movies on the awesome DIY Photography website, I did a little research and once again, it was Ebay to the rescue!

When my Taiwanese beauty arrived in the mail I was quick to bust it out.  You have a few options, but basically it comes down to:

  1. How long should I wait to start taking pictures?
  2. How long should I wait between shots?
  3. How long should I make the shots (or let the camera take care of it)?
  4. How many pictures should I take?

Want to read all about it and see the final movie?  Hit the jump and read on.

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Two Photography Birds, One Domestic Cat Stone

As you might have noticed, I love my 50mm lens – the Nifty Fifty.  Photography would be a much more accessible and enjoyable hobby if more good stuff cost less.  Honestly, at this point, I raise an eyebrow much faster at a lens that costs less than $100 than I do at one that costs more than $1,000.  But I’m getting off the subject – where was I.  Ah yes.  The Nifty Fifty.  This is a great lens that anyone who owns a Canon (D)SLR should have.  The main selling point after the price is that huge f/1.8 aperture.  That makes it a good two stops faster than most “good” lenses and worlds better than the slow end of what comes bundled with your average camera.  This has some obvious upsides (bokeh, anyone?) but there are also some problems.

It is easy to take bad pictures with this lens.  Out of focus pictures.  Here’s the key.  In most situations, the camera is going to drop the lens all the way open in order to gain more light.  Unless you set the aperture yourself, this means shallow depth of field.  When you take a picture of two people maybe 8 feet away with one slightly in front of the other, someone is going to be blurry.  You see where I’m going here?  No?  Well that’s why I brought examples.

Lucky The Cat, with focus on his head

This, my friend, is Lucky the Cat, doing what he does (when he isn’t rapaciously eating or rapaciously scratching people).  Without moving the camera, but with a twist of the focus ring, you get this:

Lucky the cat, with focus on his paw

Lucky is a big cat, but he’s not that big.  This is shallow depth of field.  You can do some great stuff with it, but you’ve got to remember that it exists.  If you want more DOF, you have to dial your aperture down a few stops, which means you need a higher ISO speed or a longer exposure length.  This is the same with any lens, of course.  The only difference is with the Nifty Fifty, you have the option of going down to 1.8.  You’ll never have the shallow DOF problem with an f/5.6 lens because you’ll have your own, completely different problems instead.  I’ll take this one any day.

2 Steps to Snappy Pictures

Seattle can be a dreary place – you may have heard.  The overcast gives an even light that can be good for portraiture, but when it gets too dark out, you often end up with flat light.  However you get it, flat light makes boring pictures.  Simple as that.  A while back, I put up this technique (or at least linked to it) on how to add some pop to a picture that needs something extra.  It works well, but it takes a little while.  There are more than a few steps.  It involves brushes and such.  When you need it, great.  But what if you want something easier?  There are a couple caveats, but once again, I’ve stolen something I can help you with.  Let’s start from the start:

newspaper-box-start

Wanna see how this picture gets at least marginally more interesting?  Click the jump for more.  I promise it’s easy!

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Cat In The Headlights

The more I learn about photography, the more I realize how little I know.  I’ve been doing some portrait stuff at work and I’ve been thinking a lot about lighting.  I got to rent some neat crap which made me realize just how much fun it is to be able to get your flash completely off your camera.  It leads to some great photographic stupidity, like this:

Lucky-cat-in-headlights

Camera & Lens   Canon EOS REBEL T1i (Canon) & EF50mm f/1.8 II     Shutter:   1/60 s
Creation Date:   2009:07:17 16:34:32     Aperture:   f/4.0
Artist:   N/A     ISO:   800
Exposure Mode:   Normal program     Focal Length:   50 mm

That’s my furry little monster Lucky, who happens to be a perfect subject in that he can’t leave and never knows what’s coming.  See those dark corners?  No post-processing at all.  When you can control your flash direction independently of the camera, you have all sorts of options.  Most of the time, to be honest, this is analogous to the manual controls on your camera – for all the freedom it gives, it’s usually just confusing.  Unless you do this all day, a setting pretty close to auto is very nice.  It isn’t cheap in any way, but the new Pocketwizard MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 are the best of both worlds.  They have pages of settings to toy with, but my favorite part is that when I attach one to my camera and the other to my flash, the camera works just like the flash was directly attached. The only difference is that I can direct it however I like.

Usually the best way to use a flash is to disperse the beam – bouncing it off a ceiling or wall for more even light.  In this picture, I used a grid, which does just the opposite.  I don’t think it would be the most flattering portrait, but it sure is exciting and hey… Lucky can’t complain.